Graz is Austria's relaxed second city, a place where a UNESCO-listed old town of red-tiled roofs and Renaissance courtyards sits beneath a wooded hill crowned by a clock tower. It is a university town too, with four universities filling the lanes with a young, easygoing energy and a lively cafe and bar scene. Above all it is Styria's food capital, the proud home of dark green pumpkin seed oil (Kernol), crisp Schilcher rose and hearty Brettljause boards of cured meats and cheeses. Approach it slowly: ride the funicular or climb the zigzag path up the Schlossberg for the defining view, wander the Hauptplatz and the arcaded Landhaus courtyard, then cross the Mur to the glowing blue blob of the Kunsthaus and the floating Murinsel. Eat where locals eat, at the Kaiser-Josef-Platz farmers market on a Saturday morning, at a Buschenschank tasting new wine, or over open sandwiches at a century-old delicatessen. Many museums shut on Mondays and shops close early on Saturdays, so plan around the market mornings and long, unhurried Styrian lunches. Graz rewards the wanderer who lingers.
A full, walkable day in Graz, free for everyone. Set your pace and start time.
Start Graz-style: eat a few Brotchen standing at the counter with a small sparkling wine. It opens early and is a local institution just off the Hauptplatz.
Admire the pastel facades and the Archduke Johann fountain, then duck into the arcaded Renaissance Landhaus courtyard next door, which is free and usually quiet in the morning.
Four floors of 32,000 pieces of armour and weaponry. It closes on Mondays in winter and shuts for lunch off-season, so check times; allow an hour.
Order the Styrian 'tapas' plate or a Brettljause board with a glass of Schilcher rose. It sits near the river on the Lend side, handy for the afternoon.
See the glowing blue 'Friendly Alien' and walk out onto the floating steel island in the Mur. Entry to the Murinsel and its cafe is free.
Take the Schlossbergbahn up and enjoy the clock tower and gardens. Walk down the zigzag path, or ride the tunnel slide (Schlossbergrutsche) for a thrill.
Have a spritz on the Aiola terrace for the rooftop view, then head down for Styrian classics in the 16th-century vaulted cellar; book the Landhauskeller ahead.
The wooded hill at the city's heart, crowned by the beloved 16th-century clock tower (Uhrturm) with oversized hands; ride the funicular up and walk down through the gardens, or brave the tunnel slide.
Beloved corner bistro pairing Styrian 'tapas', small plates of pumpkin seed oil, cured meats and cheeses, with a Brettljause board and an all-Styrian wine list; a reliable, buzzy spot near the Kunsthaus.
The triangular medieval main square ringed by pastel facades and anchored by the Archduke Johann fountain; come for the food stalls at lunch and the buzz of trams sweeping across it.
The bulbous blue 'Friendly Alien', a landmark of modern art architecture with a skin of glowing pixels; check what temporary show is on and go at dusk to see the facade light up.
The late-Gothic Dom, once the court church, keeps a faded 15th-century plague fresco on its outer wall and a lavish Baroque interior; step inside for the ornate reliquary chests.
An extraordinary green-domed Mannerist mausoleum beside the cathedral, with interiors partly designed by a young Fischer von Erlach; join a guided visit to see the crypt and stucco ceilings.
Atmospheric vaulted cellar and courtyard dating to 1550, serving classic Styrian fare like Backhendl fried chicken and Tafelspitz in a room hung with heraldry; book for the courtyard in summer.
Glass-walled cafe and cocktail terrace perched on the Schlossberg with the best rooftop view in town; come for a spritz at golden hour rather than a serious meal, and reserve a terrace table.
A Graz ritual since 1932, this stand-up delicatessen sells jewel-like open sandwiches (Brotchen) topped with egg, ham and roast beef; eat them at the counter with a glass of sparkling wine.
Snug wood-panelled inn tucked in the old town, doing dependable Styrian classics like beef broth with Frittaten and roast pork under vaulted ceilings; the shaded courtyard is a summer treat.
You're reading the free preview. Members get the full Graz guide, every spot mapped and built into ready-to-walk 1, 3 & 7-day plans, plus 100+ cities across Europe.
$49 a year, under $1 a week. Less than one tourist-trap coffee.
Cancel anytime · keep access until your term ends
Create your account at checkout. · Already a member? Sign in
Austria