Siena is a medieval Tuscan hill city that seems frozen at its Gothic peak, a warren of steep brick lanes fanning out from the great shell-shaped Piazza del Campo. Its rival to Florence never came, so what survives is a smaller, more intact world of towers, contrade neighbourhood banners and a striped cathedral that ranks among Italy's finest. Approach Siena slowly and on foot, because the centre is entirely pedestrian and gloriously walkable once you accept the gradients. Start early at the Campo before the day-trippers arrive, climb the Torre del Mangia for the rooftop view, then lose an afternoon in the Duomo complex. Siena is fiercely proud of its Palio horse race, run twice each summer, and of local cooking built on pici pasta, wild boar ragu, pecorino from nearby Pienza and the almond sweets panforte and ricciarelli. Sit on the sloping Campo with a gelato, drink a Chianti or a bold Brunello from the hills south, and remember that many sights and shops close for a long lunch. Give Siena at least a night, because it is at its most magical once the coaches have gone.
A full, walkable day in Siena, free for everyone. Set your pace and start time.
Try a slice of panforte or a ricciarelli with your espresso; the Banchi di Sopra leads straight down to the square.
Early morning is the only time the shell-shaped square is quiet; note the Fonte Gaia fountain at the top.
Numbers are capped, so buy your slot early; the 400-step climb is steep and narrow but the rooftop view is unmatched.
Order pici with wild boar ragu; it fills with locals, so aim to sit down by one o'clock.
Buy the combined OPA SI pass to see all the cathedral sites; the inlaid floor is only fully uncovered in late summer and autumn.
Access is through the Museo dell'Opera; the spiral stair is tight, so pause at passing points.
Book ahead for this handsome former pharmacy near the Campo; ask for a table in the lovely front room.
The sloping, shell-shaped medieval square at the city's heart, ringed by palazzi and paved in nine segments; sit on the brick fan with a gelato, and picture the Palio horses thundering round the edge.
A beautiful old pharmacy turned osteria near the Campo, with marble-and-wood interiors and a deep cellar, serving refined pici and seasonal Tuscan plates; book ahead.
The slender 102-metre bell tower rising from the town hall, one of Italy's tallest medieval towers; climb its 400 steps early for a soaring view over the terracotta rooftops.
A dazzling striped Gothic cathedral with a Pisano pulpit, Pinturicchio frescoes and an inlaid marble floor unveiled only part of the year; buy the combined OPA SI pass to see everything.
The Gothic town hall on the Campo, housing Lorenzetti's Allegory of Good and Bad Government and Simone Martini's Maesta; visit the frescoes, then climb the tower attached.
A jewel-box room off the Duomo aisle, its walls covered in vivid Pinturicchio frescoes and shelves of illuminated choir books; included in the cathedral ticket, so do not skip it.
The Gothic baptistery tucked beneath the cathedral apse, centred on a Renaissance font with bronze panels by Donatello, Ghiberti and Jacopo della Quercia; quieter than the Duomo above.
A long-running local favourite behind the Campo on Piazza del Mercato, ladling out pici with wild boar ragu and hearty ribollita at honest prices.
A friendly, brick-vaulted wine bar near the Campo pouring a broad range of Tuscan labels by the glass alongside sharing boards and pici; a fine spot for Brunello.
A cramped, cash-only hole in the wall serving cheap plates of local salumi, cheeses and beans with rough house wine; stand at the counter and soak up the atmosphere.
A candlelit stone-walled dining room in a medieval house, a long-standing address for classic Sienese cooking and grilled meats; reserve for the atmosphere.
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Italy