Siena

Siena is a medieval Tuscan hill city that seems frozen at its Gothic peak, a warren of steep brick lanes fanning out from the great shell-shaped Piazza del Campo. Its rival to Florence never came, so what survives is a smaller, more intact world of towers, contrade neighbourhood banners and a striped cathedral that ranks among Italy's finest. Approach Siena slowly and on foot, because the centre is entirely pedestrian and gloriously walkable once you accept the gradients. Start early at the Campo before the day-trippers arrive, climb the Torre del Mangia for the rooftop view, then lose an afternoon in the Duomo complex. Siena is fiercely proud of its Palio horse race, run twice each summer, and of local cooking built on pici pasta, wild boar ragu, pecorino from nearby Pienza and the almond sweets panforte and ricciarelli. Sit on the sloping Campo with a gelato, drink a Chianti or a bold Brunello from the hills south, and remember that many sights and shops close for a long lunch. Give Siena at least a night, because it is at its most magical once the coaches have gone.