Hvar is the sun-soaked, lavender-scented star of the Dalmatian islands, a place that swings between glamorous yacht-set nightlife in Hvar Town and slow, ancient farming life in the interior. Most visitors arrive by catamaran from Split into Hvar Town's perfect little bay, framed by a Venetian square, a hilltop fortress and a fleet of taxi boats to the Pakleni islands offshore. But the island rewards those who move beyond the port: the terraced Stari Grad Plain has been farmed since Greek times, the old capital of Stari Grad is a hushed maze of stone, and the eastern villages of Jelsa and Vrboska stay gentle even in August. Rent a scooter or car to reach hidden coves and clifftop wine villages, come early to the beaches before the day boats, and structure your day around the heat: swim and explore in the morning, retreat for the fierce afternoon, then let the town glow at dusk. Hvar boasts more sunshine hours than almost anywhere in Croatia, so pack a hat and lean into the rhythm.
A full, walkable day in Hvar, free for everyone. Set your pace and start time.
The great square is at its calmest early; grab a sweet from Nonica and take it slowly.
Go up through the pine paths before the heat; the view over the Pakleni islands is the island's best.
Boats leave from the harbour all morning; Palmizana has a beach club and lunch, quieter Jerolim is for pure swimming.
Locals disappear in the afternoon heat; do the same and save energy for the evening.
Walk the coastal path west; arrive before sunset for the afterbeach ritual on the rocks.
All local, no frying; graze the Dalmatian platters of cheese, ham and marinated vegetables.
The square and harbour bars stay lively late; Hvar Town's nightlife is famous, so pace yourself.
The hilltop fortress crowning Hvar Town, with cannons, a dungeon and the island's best view over the Pakleni archipelago; walk up through the pines for sunset.
Candlelit tavern climbing the old steps above the square, serving Dalmatian cheeses, cured meats and marinated dishes on rustic wooden platters; no fried food, all local.
Croatia's largest and grandest old square, a sweep of white stone opening from the cathedral to the harbour; the beating heart of Hvar Town's evening life.
The Renaissance-baroque cathedral closing the top of the main square, its tiered bell tower a landmark; slip in for the cool interior and treasury.
A chain of wooded islets just offshore with the clearest swimming and hidden coves; hop a taxi boat from the harbour to Palmizana or Jerolim for the day.
A serene 15th-century monastery on the bay's edge with a famous Last Supper painting and a garden cypress said to be 300 years old.
A UNESCO-listed grid of dry-stone walls and vineyards laid out by Greek colonists 2,400 years ago and farmed ever since; cycle or walk its ancient lanes.
Warm, wildly popular little restaurant on a narrow lane, known for grilled tuna steak, truffle pastas and a genuinely generous welcome; book well ahead.
Atmospheric candlelit cellar in the backstreets pairing island wines with slow-cooked pasticada and homemade gnocchi; intimate and romantic.
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Croatia