Rovinj is the most photogenic town on the Istrian coast, a huddle of tall, pastel houses rising straight from the sea to a single soaring church spire, its old town a former island now joined to the mainland. Once a Venetian port, it still feels more Italian than Croatian, with bilingual street signs, a fishing harbour full of small boats and steep cobbled lanes that tumble down to the water. This is Istria, Croatia's gastronomic heart, so the real pleasure here is slow: truffles from the inland forests, wild asparagus in spring, top olive oils, fresh Adriatic fish and crisp Malvazija white wine. Wander the old town in the soft early light before the day trippers arrive, climb to St Euphemia's church for the view over the red roofs and the offshore islands, then spend afternoons swimming in the pine-fringed coves of the Zlatni Rt park or hopping a boat to the little islands offshore. Rovinj works beautifully as a base for the whole region, from the hilltop wine and truffle villages of the interior to the Roman arena at Pula and the fjord-like Lim channel. Come for the postcard and stay for the food.
A full, walkable day in Rovinj, free for everyone. Set your pace and start time.
The lanes are magical and crowd-free just after dawn; start before the day boats arrive.
Browse the artists' studios on the way up; the wooden bell-tower stairs give the best view in town.
A quick, charming look at the town's fishing-boat heritage, then an espresso by the harbour.
Walk or cycle south to the pine-shaded coves; the rocks off Punta Corrente are the locals' favourite.
The western rocks below the church catch the golden light; grab a gelato from Zeper first.
A characterful old konoba; try the fuzi pasta with truffles and the bakalar.
Cocktail bars line the western shore; the illuminated old town reflected in the water is the reward.
The great baroque church crowning the old town, its bell tower modelled on Venice's San Marco; climb the creaking wooden staircase for the finest view over the roofs and sea.
A beloved little pizzeria and konoba on a narrow lane, turning out some of the best pizza in town from a proper oven; expect to queue in season.
The former island of pastel houses and narrow cobbled lanes rising from the sea to the spire; simply get lost in it, ideally in the quiet early morning light.
The steep, cobbled main artery climbing to the church, lined with tiny artists' studios and galleries; it hosts a famous open-air art show each August.
The ornate 17th-century Venetian gateway marking the entrance to the old town from the main square, topped by a Venetian lion and a Turk's head.
A lovely forest park of pines, cypresses and holm oaks along the shore south of town, laced with swimming spots and shady cycling paths; the locals' beach.
The working fishing harbour and its waterfront, where small boats bob and taxi boats leave for the islands; the classic spot to watch the town glow at sunset.
A tiny, quirky spot serving inventive tasting plates of Istrian produce with wines by the glass; only a few tables, so book ahead.
A cluttered, characterful institution crammed with old Istrian bric-a-brac, doing hearty bakalar, fuzi pasta with truffles and grilled fish.
A lively harbourfront konoba specialising in the humble oily fish of the Adriatic, from sardines to anchovies, done simply and well with Istrian wines.
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Croatia