Rovinj

Rovinj is the most photogenic town on the Istrian coast, a huddle of tall, pastel houses rising straight from the sea to a single soaring church spire, its old town a former island now joined to the mainland. Once a Venetian port, it still feels more Italian than Croatian, with bilingual street signs, a fishing harbour full of small boats and steep cobbled lanes that tumble down to the water. This is Istria, Croatia's gastronomic heart, so the real pleasure here is slow: truffles from the inland forests, wild asparagus in spring, top olive oils, fresh Adriatic fish and crisp Malvazija white wine. Wander the old town in the soft early light before the day trippers arrive, climb to St Euphemia's church for the view over the red roofs and the offshore islands, then spend afternoons swimming in the pine-fringed coves of the Zlatni Rt park or hopping a boat to the little islands offshore. Rovinj works beautifully as a base for the whole region, from the hilltop wine and truffle villages of the interior to the Roman arena at Pula and the fjord-like Lim channel. Come for the postcard and stay for the food.