Zagreb is Croatia's under-rated capital, a relaxed, cafe-obsessed Central European city that feels closer to Vienna or Budapest than to the Dalmatian coast. It splits neatly into the medieval Upper Town (Gornji Grad), a hilltop knot of red-roofed lanes, churches and museums reached by a tiny funicular, and the grand 19th-century Lower Town (Donji Grad) of Habsburg boulevards, leafy squares and the green horseshoe of parks. The rhythm here is unhurried: Zagreb runs on coffee, and the Saturday morning spica, when everyone dresses up to see and be seen over a long espresso, is practically a civic ritual. Base yourself near the central Ban Jelacic Square, explore on foot and by the rattling blue trams, and give the quirky small museums a chance, from the Museum of Broken Relationships to a gallery of naive art. The city is walkable, cheap by Western European standards and easy to enjoy in a couple of days, with the wooded Medvednica mountain and the Plitvice lakes both within reach. Come for the cafes and stay for the unpolished, genuinely lived-in charm.
A full, walkable day in Zagreb, free for everyone. Set your pace and start time.
Catch the market at its liveliest and grab a warm burek or fresh strukli from the stalls.
The funicular is one of the world's shortest; St Mark's tiled roof is the classic photo.
Allow an hour; it is funny and moving in equal measure and utterly unlike any other museum.
Order both savoury and sweet baked strukli; it is the dish Zagreb does best.
Pause at the candlelit shrine in the Stone Gate, then wander Tkalciceva's cafe-lined slope.
Stroll the plane-tree avenue and fountains; a slice of cake at Vincek makes a good pause.
Book a courtyard table and order the peka-roasted veal or lamb, a Zagreb classic.
Zagreb's grand central square, ringed by pastel Habsburg facades and rattling blue trams, with the statue of Ban Jelacic at its heart; the natural place to start and meet.
The Upper Town's icon, roofed with bright tiles depicting the coats of arms of Zagreb and Croatia; you cannot go inside much but the roof is the photo everyone wants.
The neo-Gothic cathedral with its twin spires, long under restoration after the 2020 earthquake; check the current access, as the towers may be scaffolded.
The city's beating produce market under a sea of red umbrellas, just above the main square; go in the morning to see Zagreb shop and to graze the stalls.
A moving, funny and utterly original museum of donated objects and the stories of the relationships they outlasted; one of Europe's most memorable small museums.
The buzzing pedestrian street of pastel houses, cafes and bars running down from the Upper Town; the go-to place for an evening drink or coffee.
Rustic Upper Town tavern bringing the coast inland, with stone walls, prosciutto, slow-cooked lamb and homemade bread; cosy and atmospheric.
Small, buzzy kitchen doing everything from a proper burger to Asian bowls and big brunches; a favourite for a relaxed, non-traditional meal.
The red-parasol market above Ban Jelacic Square, piled with cheese, honey and produce; graze fresh strukli, sausages and burek from the stalls below.
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Croatia