Brno is the Czech Republic's confident second city, a Moravian university town that trades Prague's crowds for wine bars, functionalist architecture and a genuine local rhythm. It rewards a slower, more curious traveller: come for the modernist landmark of Villa Tugendhat, stay for the cafe culture, the spiky cathedral on Petrov hill and the eerie ossuary and casemates hidden beneath the streets. The centre is compact and flat enough to cross on foot, with an excellent tram network filling the gaps, and the student population keeps prices low and evenings lively. This is Moravian wine country, so swap beer for a glass of local Palava or Ryzlink and settle into a vinarna. Time your visit around the famous astronomical clock quirk on the main square, book Villa Tugendhat weeks ahead as tours sell out fast, and leave room for a day trip into the Moravian Karst caves or the vineyards of the south. Brno is unpretentious, walkable and quietly cool, a city that locals are happy to keep as their secret.
A full, walkable day in Brno, free for everyone. Set your pace and start time.
Start with Brno's best espresso, then walk to the main square to spot the bullet-shaped astronomical clock and the functionalist facades.
Buy a ticket at the entrance on the square; the bone-lined chambers are sobering, so allow 30 to 40 minutes.
Listen for the noon bells rung at 11:00 by tradition; climb the tower for the city panorama and pause in the Denis Gardens below.
The medieval cellars are cool and atmospheric; entry is by timed tour from the corner of the market square.
Stroll the wooded slopes to the fortress; the casemates tell the prison history and the ramparts give the best city view.
Swap beer for local Palava or Ryzlink by the glass with a charcuterie board; the staff will guide you through small producers.
Book ahead for this refined functionalist-era restaurant and its seasonal Czech menu, a fine end to the day.
Mies van der Rohe's 1930 modernist masterpiece and UNESCO site, with its onyx wall and floor-to-ceiling glass, viewable only on a timed guided tour that sells out weeks ahead, so book early.
The twin-spired neo-Gothic cathedral crowning Petrov hill, famous for ringing noon at 11:00 after a legendary siege, climb the tower for a fine city panorama.
The hilltop fortress turned notorious Habsburg prison, now a museum with grim casemates and a superb rampart viewpoint over Brno, allow time to walk the wooded slopes.
Central Europe's second-largest ossuary beneath the Church of St James, holding the bones of tens of thousands arranged into eerie patterns, a haunting and unmissable underground visit.
Brno's grand triangular main square lined with historic and functionalist facades and the curious black astronomical clock shaped like a bullet, the city's beating heart.
The Brno branch of the beloved Lokal chain pouring fresh unpasteurised Pilsner Urquell tanked daily beside proper svickova and pork schnitzel, always buzzing.
The Bar That Doesn't Exist is Brno's most celebrated cocktail den, with a vast spirits wall and inventive drinks, expect a wait or come early on weekends.
Snug cellar wine bar showcasing small South Moravian producers by the glass with charcuterie and cheese boards, the perfect intro to local Palava and Ryzlink.
Relaxed restaurant with a leafy terrace on the slopes of Spilberk Castle, good for grilled meats and a Moravian glass with a view over the city rooftops.
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Czechia