Karlovy Vary is a grand West Bohemian spa town strung along a narrow river valley, where pastel colonnades, belle-epoque hotels and forested hillsides frame a centuries-old ritual of drinking hot mineral water. The approach is unhurried by design: buy a porcelain sipping cup with its built-in spout, stroll from spring to spring tasting the twelve mineral sources, and let the healing-water culture set a gentle pace. The valley centre is long and thin, easy to walk end to end, with funiculars and forest trails climbing to viewpoints above. This is a town for slowing down, taking the waters, soaking in a thermal bath and sampling the two local souvenirs everyone leaves with, the wafer-thin spa oplatky biscuits and the herbal liqueur Becherovka, sometimes called the thirteenth spring. Come for a spa treatment, a walk through the Grandhotel Pupp's Hollywood-glamour past, and the crisp air of the surrounding hills. If you visit in early July the international film festival electrifies the town, otherwise expect a genteel, restorative rhythm best savoured over two or three slow days.
A full, walkable day in Karlovy Vary, free for everyone. Set your pace and start time.
Pick up a porcelain sipping cup from any promenade shop, then taste the five springs along the grand neo-Renaissance arcade.
Watch the geyser spout hot water skyward, then explore the underground gallery; the hottest spring is far too hot to sip fully.
This Baroque gem by Dientzenhofer sits right by the hot spring; a quick, calming stop with a fine dome.
Refuel with grilled meats and Czech classics before heading up into the hills for the afternoon.
Catch the funicular behind the Grandhotel Pupp; climb the tower for the best panorama over the spa valley.
Learn how the herbal liqueur nicknamed the thirteenth spring is made, then enjoy the guided tasting.
Book ahead for the town's most acclaimed kitchen; the game dishes and Czech classics are the highlights.
The grandest of the spa colonnades, a long neo-Renaissance arcade of 124 columns sheltering five mineral springs, buy a sipping cup and taste each one along the promenade.
The opulent flagship dining room of the historic Grandhotel Pupp, serving refined Czech and international cuisine beneath chandeliers, a dress-up occasion, so book and dress smart.
The modern glass pavilion housing the Vridlo geyser that erupts hot mineral water up to 12 metres, watch the spout then see the underground gallery below.
A masterful Baroque church by Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer standing above the hot spring, worth stepping inside for its light-filled dome and calm.
A stone lookout tower on a wooded hill reached by a short funicular from behind the Grandhotel Pupp, ride up for a sweeping view over the whole spa valley.
The town's most famous belle-epoque hotel, a Hollywood favourite that appeared in Casino Royale, stroll its grand halls or take coffee to feel the old glamour.
A delicate white Swiss-style wooden colonnade dripping with carved detail, sheltering the Charles IV and Lower Castle springs, one of the prettiest spots in town.
Long-celebrated intimate restaurant near the market colonnade with polished Czech dishes and game specials, widely rated the town's best table, so reserve ahead.
Relaxed central spot known for generous grilled meats, ribs and Czech classics with a good beer list, a dependable and friendly place after a day of springs.
Elegant Viennese-style cafe on the promenade dating to the 1700s, the classic place for coffee, strudel and cake amid the colonnade parade.
Cheerful themed tavern celebrating the good soldier Svejk with big plates of svickova, roast pork and dumplings and well-poured Pilsner, a hearty local staple.
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Czechia