Cologne (Koln) is the Rhineland's warm-hearted, wisecracking capital, a 2,000-year-old Roman city rebuilt around the twin black spires of its colossal Gothic cathedral. Approach it as a sociable, walkable place best drunk in slowly, ideally over glasses of Kolsch, the pale local beer served in slim 0.2-litre glasses that a blue-aproned Kobes waiter keeps replacing until you lay your beermat on top. Start under the Dom, wander the pastel-painted Altstadt alleys down to the Rhine promenade, and cross the Hohenzollern Bridge draped in thousands of love padlocks. The city wears its history lightly: Roman ruins sit beneath modern squares, twelve Romanesque churches ring the old core, and world-class art fills the Museum Ludwig. Time a visit for Karneval in February if you love a party, or for a mellow riverside summer evening otherwise. Cologne rewards curiosity and a relaxed pace, so pull up a stool in a traditional brewhouse, order the pork knuckle and let the locals fold you into the conversation.
A full, walkable day in Cologne, free for everyone. Set your pace and start time.
Fuel up before the cathedral opens; the Streuselkuchen makes a good second breakfast.
Go at opening to beat coach groups; the 533-step spiral to the tower is unmissable but has no lift, so pace yourself.
Right beside the Dom; weekday mornings are quietest. Head for the Pop Art and Picasso rooms first.
The pastel houses look best in afternoon light; duck into the Romanesque church for its calm stone interior.
See the love-lock fences and the postcard view back to the Dom; the far Deutz bank has the best photo angle.
Grab a cream cake and the finest cathedral view in the city; the glasshouse is lovely if the weather turns.
Sit under the stained-glass ceiling; the Rheinischer Sauerbraten with dumplings is the dish to order.
The vast twin-spired Gothic Dom, a UNESCO landmark that took over 600 years to finish; climb the 533 steps of the south tower for a sweeping view, and go early to beat the coach crowds.
The archetypal Kolsch brewhouse in the cathedral's shadow, all vaulted cellars and blue-aproned Kobes waiters, serving Halve Hahn (a rye roll with Gouda) and pork knuckle.
The rail-and-pedestrian bridge whose mesh fencing groans under hundreds of thousands of love padlocks; walk across at dusk for the classic photo of Dom and river together.
One of Europe's great modern art collections next to the Dom, strong on Pop Art, Picasso and German Expressionism; quiet on weekday mornings.
The reconstructed pastel gabled houses of the old town gathered around the little Fischmarkt square by the Rhine; touristy but genuinely pretty at golden hour.
The Romanesque church whose cloverleaf tower defines the old-town skyline; step inside for the austere stone interior, then admire it from the Rhine boulevard.
Home to the astonishing Dionysus mosaic and the tall Poblicius tomb from Roman Colonia; while the main building is under renovation, key pieces show at the Belgian House nearby.
Handsome Art Nouveau brewhouse with a stained-glass ceiling, pouring its own Kolsch and doing a fine Rheinischer Sauerbraten with potato dumplings.
A homelier Fruh outpost in the Severinsviertel where locals outnumber tourists, great for Himmel un Aad (black pudding with mash and apple).
Stylish design-district cafe on the Belgisches Viertel edge, buzzing for breakfast, cakes and a glass of wine on the pavement terrace.
A cramped, wildly popular student haunt in the Kwartier Latang doing dozens of enormous schnitzel variations; expect to queue and share a table.
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