Dresden is Saxony's baroque jewel on the Elbe, a city once called Florence on the Elbe for the sandstone palaces and church domes crowding its riverbank. Firebombed to ruins in 1945 and painstakingly rebuilt, above all the resurrected Frauenkirche whose blackened original stones stud the pale new dome, it is a place where history sits heavy and beauty runs deep. Approach it as a two-part city: the compact Altstadt on the south bank holds the Zwinger, the Semperoper and the Green Vault's astonishing treasures, while across the river the Neustadt is a livelier warren of galleries, bars and street art. Walk the Bruhl's Terrace, the balcony of Europe, above the river; ride a historic paddle steamer of the world's oldest fleet; and slow down for a coffee and a slice of Eierschecke cake. Beyond the city lie the vineyards of the Elbe valley and the dramatic sandstone crags of Saxon Switzerland. Book the Green Vault ahead, give the museums their due, and let Dresden's mix of grandeur and grit unfold.
A full, walkable day in Dresden, free for everyone. Set your pace and start time.
The revived confectionery does Dresden's signature Eierschecke cheesecake; a genteel start near the Altmarkt.
Look for the blackened original stones in the pale facade; the cupola climb gives a fine panorama, book the lift slot if busy.
The Procession of Princes is free on the street; the Zwinger courtyard is free to wander before you enter the galleries.
Duck into the brick cellar for Saxon roast pork and dumplings, or grab a lighter plate on the terrace.
Daytime guided tours run when there's no rehearsal; check times, or simply photograph the facade and equestrian statue.
The Balcony of Europe is at its best in late-afternoon light; walk its length for river and skyline views.
Cross the Augustusbrucke to the Neustadt side; the riverside brewpub does unfiltered beer and hearty Saxon plates.
The reconstructed baroque church whose pale dome is speckled with charred original stones, a moving symbol of reconciliation; climb to the cupola viewing gallery for a city panorama.
A lively vaulted cellar in the Taschenbergpalais serving hearty Saxon fare, roast pork and dumplings, with costumed staff; touristy but good fun.
A dazzling baroque palace complex of ornate pavilions and fountained courtyards housing the Old Masters gallery; wander the courtyard free, then buy a museum ticket.
August the Strong's staggering treasury of jewels and goldwork in the Residenzschloss; the Historic Vault needs a timed ticket booked well in advance, so plan ahead.
Dresden's magnificent opera house on the Theaterplatz, rebuilt after the war; catch a performance, or take a daytime guided tour of its lavish interior.
The elevated riverside promenade dubbed the Balcony of Europe, lined with grand buildings; stroll it at sunset for the finest views of the Elbe and the domes.
The 102-metre Procession of Princes mural made of 23,000 Meissen porcelain tiles, depicting Saxony's rulers; the world's largest porcelain artwork, free to admire on the street.
An atmospheric brick-vaulted cellar right by the Frauenkirche, big on Saxon roasts, spit-grilled meats and steins of beer.
A refined fish and seafood kitchen in the Kurlanderpalais, prized for fresh preparations and a serious wine list; book for the terrace.
A revived 1825 Dresden confectionery famous for its Eierschecke cheesecake and Christmas Stollen; a genteel Altmarkt stop for Kaffee und Kuchen.
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