Hamburg is Germany's maritime capital, a city of water, warehouses and understated wealth where the Elbe meets a web of canals said to outnumber those of Venice and Amsterdam combined. Approach it as a walking-and-ferry city: the historic Speicherstadt warehouse district and the gleaming Elbphilharmonie anchor the harbour, while the Alster lakes bring sailboats and joggers right into the centre. Ride the public HADAG ferry line 62 down the Elbe for a harbour tour at the price of a bus ticket, wander the red-brick canyons of the Kontorhausviertel, and set aside a boisterous night for the Reeperbahn in St Pauli. Eaters do well here: this is the home of the Franzbrötchen pastry, the Fischbrötchen herring roll and hearty Labskaus. Sundays start early at the Fischmarkt, where the auction halls fill with brass bands by dawn. Weather is famously changeable, so pack a rain jacket, embrace the grey light off the water, and let the tides set the rhythm of your days.
A full, walkable day in Hamburg, free for everyone. Set your pace and start time.
The cinnamon-sugar Franzbrötchen is Hamburg's signature pastry; grab one warm before the morning rush.
Best light is early; loop past the Wasserschloss and photograph the reflections before the tour crowds arrive.
Book a timed slot online days ahead, it sells out; give yourself at least two hours for the model world.
A normal HVV ticket covers it; sit outside on the top deck for a cheap harbour cruise toward Finkenwerder.
Take the lift or the stairs up the 'Michel'; the 106-metre gallery gives the finest overview of port and city.
The Plaza is free but needs a timed ticket in peak season; the long curved escalator ride is half the fun.
The little canal-side canteen leans at an angle; order the classic Labskaus with a fried egg and rollmops.
The wave-crested glass concert hall atop an old cocoa warehouse; ride the curved escalator to the free Plaza viewing deck at 37 metres, but reserve a timed Plaza ticket online in high season.
White-tablecloth institution overlooking the Elbe since 1981, famed for its Finkenwerder Scholle (pan-fried plaice with bacon) and a legendary Sunday brunch; book a window table.
The world's largest contiguous red-brick warehouse district on timber piles, best seen at dusk when the canals and gabled facades light up; the Wasserschloss cafe makes a pretty stop.
The planet's largest model railway, an astonishing miniature world with a working airport and day-night cycles; book a timed slot far ahead, it sells out daily.
Hamburg's beloved baroque 'Michel' with a copper tower that sailors used as a landmark; climb or lift up to the 106-metre viewing gallery for a full harbour panorama.
The floating landing stages that are the pulse of the port; ride the public HADAG ferry line 62 to Finkenwerder for a cheap harbour cruise past the container terminals.
TV chef Tim Malzer's buzzing brick meat hall in a former cattle market, big on dry-aged steaks and shared plates; the deli next door does a great lunch.
Belle Epoque brasserie under a listed 1882 tiled ceiling near the Rathaus, perfect for croque monsieur, steak frites and a leisurely weekend breakfast.
Tiny, tilting 1925 brick canteen by the canal serving proper Hamburg Labskaus, the sailor's mash of corned beef, beetroot, fried egg and herring.
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Germany