Heidelberg

Heidelberg is Germany's most romantic city, a river town of red-roofed baroque houses cradled between wooded hills, crowned by a half-ruined pink sandstone castle. Spared the wartime bombing that flattened many German cities, its old town survives largely intact, and its ancient university, the country's oldest, keeps the streets young and lively. Approach Heidelberg on foot, because the pedestrian Hauptstrasse runs almost a kilometre through the Altstadt past churches, taverns and student haunts to the market square. Start early at the castle before the coaches arrive, ride the funicular up, then cross the Neckar by the Alte Brucke to walk the Philosophenweg, the philosophers' path with the postcard view back over town. Local life centres on hearty regional cooking, Kurpfalz specialities like Saumagen and Maultaschen, crisp Palatinate wines from the vineyards just west, and the beer-and-pretzel culture of old student taverns. The city is small enough to see in a day but rewards a longer stay with day trips along the Neckar valley and into the Palatinate wine region. Bring good shoes for the castle climb and cobbles, and let the town's easy charm set the pace.