

Munich is the most un-German of German cities - laid-back, beer-soaked and unapologetically Baroque, with a Mediterranean streak that shows the moment the sun comes out and the whole city decamps to a beer garden under the chestnut trees. The centre is compact and flat, ideal on foot or by a cheap MVV transit pass, with the pedestrianised old town strung between Marienplatz and the Viktualienmarkt. Don't over-plan: the real pleasure here is an unhurried Mass of beer at a long communal table, a stroll through the Englischer Garten, and the surfers riding the standing wave on the Eisbach. Save your structured days for the world-class museums and the heavyweight day trips - Neuschwanstein, the sobering memorial at Dachau, and the Alps an hour south. Learn that lunch is sacred, Sundays everything closes, and you tip by rounding up and telling the server the total. Munich rewards the slow and the thirsty.
A full, walkable day in Munich, free for everyone. Set your pace and start time.
Have it fresh and standing; cash works fastest in the morning rush.
The carillon plays at 11am daily; arrive a few minutes early as the square fills fast.
On a clear day you can see the Alps; check for restoration closures first.
Tiny and overwhelming; free entry, keep voices low during any service.
The barrel-vaulted Antiquarium and the Treasury are the highlights; allow two hours.
Sit in the ground-floor Schwemme for the full band-and-beer spectacle.

The grand central square dominated by the neo-Gothic Rathaus, whose Glockenspiel carillon performs daily at 11am.


The famous 1589 state brewery hall, touristy and roaring with an oompah band, but worth one Mass and a pretzel for the spectacle.

One of the world's largest urban parks, home to the Eisbach surfers, the Chinese Tower beer garden and open meadows.

The Wittelsbachs' sprawling Baroque summer residence with canal-laced gardens and the Gallery of Beauties.

The 200-year-old gourmet market at the city's heart - stalls of cheese, charcuterie and produce around a maypole.

Futuristic showroom and museum by the Olympiapark tracing BMW's design, engineering and motorsport heritage.

The twin onion-domed cathedral that is Munich's defining silhouette; climb the south tower for views to the Alps.
Open-air market behind Marienplatz - graze on a Leberkäse roll, oysters or fruit, then drink in its rotating-brewery beer garden.

The locals' favourite Augustiner cellar near the Hauptbahnhof, with a huge chestnut-shaded garden and beer from wooden barrels.

Tiny institution by the Viktualienmarkt frying fresh Schmalznudel doughnuts all day - have one hot with coffee, standing.

Long-running upscale vegetarian kitchen in a vaulted Altstadt room, with inventive plates and famous curry dishes.
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