Mykonos wears two faces at once, and knowing both is the secret to enjoying it. By day it is a Cycladic island of whitewashed cubes, blue-domed chapels and dazzling beaches lapped by the Aegean; by night it is Greece's glossiest party island, where beach clubs charge fortunes and DJs play until dawn. The old town, Chora, is a deliberate maze, its lanes built narrow and twisting to confuse the pirates who once raided here, so simply getting lost is part of the pleasure. Spend mornings on the sand, late afternoons wandering to the Kato Mili windmills, and sunset with a drink in Little Venice as waves slap the balconies. Eat well and honestly: fresh fish sold by the kilo, kopanisti spicy cheese, louza cured pork and crisp barley rusks. Yes it is glamorous and pricey, but quieter corners survive, from sleepy Ano Mera to the wild sands of Fokos. Book beach clubs and dinners ahead in peak season, respect the fierce meltemi wind, and let the island's rhythm of sea, siesta and long lively evenings carry you.
A full, walkable day in Mykonos, free for everyone. Set your pace and start time.
Grab a bougatsa or spanakopita to eat as you wander; the bakery opens early and the town is blissfully quiet at this hour.
The town was built to confuse pirates, so put the map away; aim roughly toward the sea and browse Matogianni before the cruise crowds arrive.
The five merged whitewashed chapels photograph best now in soft morning light, before the sun gets harsh and the crowds thicken.
Reserve a sunbed at a beach club ahead in summer, or swim from the small free public strip; expect a minimum spend at the loungers.
The ridge above town gives the classic view over Chora and Little Venice; arrive before sunset as the light turns everything gold.
Grab a balcony seat and order the frozen daiquiri as waves slap the walls below; it fills fast, so aim to be seated before the sun drops.
Book ahead as this tiny local favourite is snug; order the louza cured pork, meatballs and kopanisti spicy cheese.
The row of round, thatched 16th-century windmills on the ridge above Chora is the island's signature silhouette, so walk up in late afternoon when the meltemi turns their memory and the light gilds the town.
Legendary shack above Agios Sostis beach with no electricity, no phone and no bookings, cooking charcoal-grilled meat and fish beside a help-yourself salad table, so arrive early and wait with a glass of wine.
A row of old sea-captains' houses with wooden balconies hanging straight over the water, best experienced with a sunset drink as the waves crash against the walls below.
A sculptural whitewashed cluster of five chapels merged into one, among the most photographed churches in Greece, best shot in soft morning light before the crowds by the Kastro gate.
The deliberately confusing labyrinth of dazzling white lanes, bougainvillea and boutiques was built to disorient pirates, so put the map away and let yourself get lost between Matogianni and the sea.
The sacred birthplace of Apollo is an entire uninhabited island of ruins, from the Terrace of the Lions to grand mosaics, reached by morning boat from the old port, so bring water, a hat and sturdy shoes as there is no shade.
A handsome 19th-century lighthouse on the island's northwest tip with sweeping views across to Tinos, a quiet spot that rewards a drive out at sunset away from the crowds.
Tiny beloved eatery on a Chora lane serving a short, honest menu of Mykonian classics like louza cured pork, meatballs and kopanisti cheese, so book ahead as tables go fast.
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