GreeceThessaloniki is Greece's second city and its most relaxed, a laid-back seafront metropolis where Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman layers pile up under a young university crowd and one of the best food scenes in the country. Ancient monuments sit casually between cafes and shops, so you rarely queue: the Rotunda, the Arch of Galerius and half a dozen UNESCO Byzantine churches are simply part of the street. Approach it slowly and by appetite. Start mornings with a warm bougatsa, spend afternoons climbing the lanes of Ano Poli, the old upper town that escaped the great 1917 fire, and reserve evenings for the long waterfront promenade of Nea Paralia and the meze-and-ouzo ritual in Ladadika or around the markets. The heart is flat and walkable along the sea, though the upper town is a steep climb. Sundays are quiet and many sights shut early, while summer empties the centre as locals decamp to Halkidiki. Eat where students eat, drink tsipouro slowly, and let the city set the pace.
Day plans
Pick your trip length. The full 1-day plan is free, members unlock the 3 and 7-day plans.
Order it warm and cut into pieces, sweet with semolina cream or savoury with feta; it is cash only and best early before it sells out.
The climb is steep, so wear good shoes; the ramparts give the best free view over the city and, on a clear day, Mount Olympus across the gulf.
See the surviving 7th-century mosaics and the atmospheric crypt below; dress modestly and note the church may close for a midday break.
