HungaryDebrecen is Hungary's second city, a proud, calm and often overlooked place on the Great Plain in the country's east, long known as the Calvinist Rome for its strong Protestant heritage. Its landmark is the twin-towered Great Reformed Church, where Hungary declared its independence in 1849, and around it spreads a walkable, low-rise centre of broad boulevards, leafy squares and grand civic buildings in yellow stone. Approach Debrecen unhurried, because this is a city of gentle pleasures rather than blockbuster sights: coffee on the main square, a soak in the thermal baths of the Nagyerdo forest park, and the discovery of a surprisingly lively food and student scene fed by one of Hungary's biggest universities. Local cooking leans hearty and rustic, built on the plains, from the spicy Debrecener sausage that carries the city's name to goulash, stuffed cabbage and freshwater fish. Just outside town lies the Hortobagy, the great grassland puszta of shepherds and grey cattle, an easy and memorable day trip. Debrecen makes a relaxed, good-value base, warmly local and refreshingly free of crowds, so let its slower rhythm win you over.
Day plans
Pick your trip length. The full 1-day plan is free, members unlock the 3 and 7-day plans.
Start with a proper flat white, then head to the grand central square framing the Great Church.
See the hall where independence was declared in 1849, then climb the west tower for the view over the centre.
Just behind the church; the historic library and the 1849 Oratory are the highlights.
