Akureyri is Iceland's second city, though with under twenty thousand people it feels more like a spirited large town, nestled at the head of the long Eyjafjordur fjord and ringed by snow-streaked mountains. Known as the Capital of the North, it has a walkable centre of colourful houses, a striking modernist church on the hill, botanical gardens that bloom improbably this far north, and a genuine cafe and dining scene that outshines anywhere else in the region. Locals are proud of small quirks like the heart-shaped red stop lights and a strong winter sports culture, since the ski slopes at Hlidarfjall sit minutes away. Use Akureyri as the hub for the entire north: the Diamond Circle of Godafoss, Myvatn, Dettifoss and Husavik whale watching all lie within an easy day's drive. Give the town a full day on foot for its museums, swimming pool and coffee houses, then radiate outward. The weather is milder and drier than the south, and the summer light is endless, making long driving days genuinely pleasant.
A full, walkable day in Akureyri, free for everyone. Set your pace and start time.
Ease into the day with pancakes; the deep-blue Blaa Kannan cafe is the town's most photographed spot for a morning coffee.
The modernist church on the hill gives the best overview of the town and fjord; the interior has a suspended ship and stained glass worth a look.
Free to enter and astonishing this far north; allow an hour among the Arctic blooms if the weather is kind.
The Waterfall of the Gods is 35 minutes east on Route 1; walk to the viewpoints on both banks, and the east side is often quieter.
Soak in the hot pots after the drive; shower thoroughly without a swimsuit first, as Icelandic pool etiquette requires.
Join the local queue for the famous ice cream; it is a ritual whatever the temperature.
Book a window table for sunset; the Arctic char and lamb are the standouts, and the lunch menu returns in summer evenings.
The bold twin-towered modernist church on the hill by architect Gudjon Samuelsson, reached up a long stone staircase with the best view over the town and fjord.
One of the world's northernmost botanical gardens, a lush surprise blooming with Arctic and alpine plants; free to enter and lovely on a rare warm afternoon.
Iceland's premier ski resort minutes from town, with runs and fjord views in winter and a scenic summit drive or hike in summer.
A rare Icelandic woodland on the town's southern edge, laced with walking and cycling trails and playgrounds, beloved by locals for weekend strolls.
A well-regarded contemporary art museum in the cultural quarter, a warm, thoughtful stop when the weather turns.
Akureyri's celebrated sushi and grill house where you pick a rub for your fish or lamb; the salmon nigiri and tasting menus draw a loyal crowd.
Cheerful bistro doing generous fish and chips and the day's fresh catch, a reliable, good-value seafood stop off the main street.
A charming cafe in an old timber house famous for its weekend brunch buffet and homemade cakes.
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Iceland