The Hague is the Netherlands at its most stately and surprising: the seat of government and the royal court, home to the International Court of Justice, yet it also owns a proper North Sea beach and a fishing-harbour resort within tram reach. It is a city of grand ministries, embassies and green boulevards rather than tight canal rings, so it feels more spacious and formal than Amsterdam, with a cosmopolitan, diplomatic air. The compact centre around the medieval Binnenhof and the jewel-box Mauritshuis is easily walked, but the city truly rewards those who spread out: to the dune-backed sands of Scheveningen, the quieter beach at Kijkduin, the museum-rich Zeeheldenkwartier and the leafy embassy district. It is also a fine art city, holding Vermeer's Girl with a Pearl Earring and the world's largest Mondrian collection. Approach it as two cities in one, buttoned-up capital by day and breezy seaside by evening, and lean on its excellent trams to link them. Come for the art, the politics-soaked streets, the herring stands and the surprising sweep of open sky over the sea.
A full, walkable day in The Hague, free for everyone. Set your pace and start time.
Fuel up near the centre before the museums open; the espresso is among the city's best.
The museum is small and Girl with a Pearl Earring draws crowds, so book a timed slot and go early for a quiet look.
The parliament complex is under restoration, so enjoy the classic reflected view from the Hofvijver bank next door.
The former royal palace is full of optical illusions and interactive rooms; a fun, unhurried hour after lunch.
See the immense 360-degree seascape, then browse the boutiques and delis of the surrounding quarter.
Take tram 1 or 9 to the coast; walk the sand and the pier and time it for a North Sea sunset.
On the working harbour, order the kibbeling and a fresh fish platter overlooking the port.
A perfect small palace of a museum holding Vermeer's Girl with a Pearl Earring and Rembrandt's Anatomy Lesson; it is compact, so book a timed ticket and take your time.
The medieval seat of Dutch government beside a mirror-still pond; the complex is under restoration, so admire it from the Hofvijver bank where the reflection is best.
The former royal winter palace filled with M.C. Escher's mind-bending prints and interactive optical rooms; the impossible-staircase installations delight all ages.
Berlage's serene brick landmark holding the world's largest Mondrian collection, including the unfinished Victory Boogie Woogie; pair it with the neighbouring photography museum.
The Netherlands' most famous seaside strip, with a long sandy beach, a Ferris-wheel pier and a bungee jump; take tram 1 or 9 and time it for a North Sea sunset.
An astonishing 360-degree painted panorama of 1880s Scheveningen viewed from a central platform, the largest of its kind; a strange, immersive and unmissable relic.
A warm neighbourhood bistro in the Zeeheldenkwartier praised for its inventive seasonal menu and value, a favourite for a relaxed but serious dinner; book ahead.
An elegant Michelin-starred kitchen tucked near the Binnenhof with a courtyard terrace, plating refined classical menus favoured by the diplomatic set; reserve well ahead.
A bustling fishmonger-restaurant on the Scheveningen harbour famous for its kibbeling and fresh fish platters eaten looking over the working port.
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Netherlands