PortugalFunchal is the sun-warmed capital of Madeira, a subtropical island floating off the coast of Africa yet unmistakably Portuguese in its tiles, churches and love of long lunches. The city climbs steeply from a working harbour up terraced hillsides thick with jacaranda and banana plants, so plan around gravity: ride the Teleferico cable car up to Monte, wander the Tropical Garden, then hurtle back toward town in a wicker toboggan steered by men in straw boaters. Down in the Zona Velha, the Old Town, cobbled Rua de Santa Maria is lined with artist-painted doors and buzzing tascas serving espetada beef skewers, limpets in garlic butter and black scabbard fish with fried banana. Wash it down with poncha, the island firewater of sugarcane spirit, honey and lemon, and a glass of fortified Madeira wine aged in a lodge cellar. Do not rush. Book nothing you cannot cancel, keep a light jacket for the mountains, and treat the daily market, the seafront promenade and a levada water-channel walk as rituals. The more slowly you take Funchal, the more its gentle, flower-filled character reveals itself.
Day plans
Pick your trip length. The full 1-day plan is free, members unlock the 3 and 7-day plans.
The station is at the eastern edge of the Zona Velha; go early for clear views over the city and harbour before cloud builds on the peaks.
Allow at least 90 minutes for the koi ponds, tile panels and Asian pagodas; the museum of minerals and African art is worth a look too.
Two carreiros steer the greased wicker sledge down the steep street toward Livramento; it is a Funchal rite of passage, so keep your camera ready.
