

Lagos is the Algarve at its most likeable: a walled old town of cobbled lanes and low whitewashed houses, wrapped around a working marina and fringed by some of the most photographed cliffs in Portugal. This was the launch port for Henry the Navigator's caravels, and the town wears its history plainly, from the sombre little slave-market museum on Praca do Infante to the gilded baroque woodwork inside the Igreja de Santo Antonio. But most visitors come for the coast. South of town the golden sandstone crumbles into the sea at Ponta da Piedade, a maze of stacks, arches and grottoes best seen from a small boat or kayak, while a string of cove beaches (Camilo, Dona Ana, Pinhao) sit at the foot of wooden staircases and switchback paths. To the east, Meia Praia unrolls four kilometres of open sand. The eating is generous and unfussy, built on grilled fish, cataplana stews, piri-piri and cheap vinho verde. Base yourself in or near the old town, walk everywhere, take a grottoes boat trip from the marina, and save a day for the wild capes at Sagres. Lagos rewards slow mornings and long, salty afternoons.
A full, walkable day in Lagos, free for everyone. Set your pace and start time.
Ease in like a local at the counter; the lanes are quietest and coolest first thing before the day-trippers arrive.
The plain white exterior gives nothing away; inside is a wall of baroque talha dourada. Your ticket usually covers both church and museum.
Small boats leave constantly from the marina and weave right into the sea caves and arches - the best way to grasp the cliffs. Around 60-90 minutes.
One of the Algarve's iconic beaches; easy access and calm water. Bring shade, as the sand fills up in high season.
Follow the boardwalks from Dona Ana; the headland light is superb in late afternoon. Watch your footing near the unfenced edges.
The little lighthouse marks the top of the stairs; stay for the sky over the stacks before heading back to town.
Book ahead for a terrace table; grilled fish and seafood rice with the sea below. A perfect first-night meal.

Lagos's showpiece: a headland of honey-coloured sandstone cliffs collapsing into turquoise water in a maze of stacks, arches and sea grottoes - walk the clifftops or, better, see it from a boat or kayak.



A small, ridiculously pretty twin-cove beach reached by a long wooden staircase down the cliff, with clear water and a rock tunnel between the two coves - arrive early, space is tight.

Perhaps the most photographed beach in the Algarve, a broad golden crescent framed by dramatic ochre rock formations and sea stacks, with easy access and calm swimming.

A compact, cliff-backed cove tucked below a short path, quieter than its famous neighbours and a fine place to swim and sunbathe close to town.

The long counterpoint to the coves: four kilometres of open, gently shelving sand east of the marina, great for walks, watersports and beach bars - reachable on foot, by ferry or by road.

A modest whitewashed exterior hides one of the Algarve's most dazzling baroque interiors - walls of gilded, carved woodwork (talha dourada) and blue-and-white azulejos; entry is via the adjoining municipal museum.
A big, buzzing barn near the waterfront with long communal benches, charcoal-grilled fish and meat, cheap house wine and famously generous portions - no bookings, just queue.


A tiny, always-full room turning out superb Portuguese small plates - garlic clams, octopus, prawns - to be shared over wine; only a handful of tables, so book or arrive early.

A warm, family-run place off the tourist drag serving classic Algarvean home cooking, well-priced grills and cataplana - friendly service and portions to defeat you.
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