San Sebastian, or Donostia in Basque, is a belle-epoque resort curled around the perfect scallop-shaped bay of La Concha, and it may be the finest place to eat in Spain. The Old Town (Parte Vieja) packs an astonishing density of pintxos bars where the ritual is to graze one or two bites and a small glass of txakoli or cider, then move on. Do not sit and order a full meal here; the joy is the crawl, elbows on the bar, pointing at the counter spread. Beyond the food, this is a city of beaches and green hills: walk the promenade of La Concha, ride the funicular up Monte Igueldo, and climb Monte Urgull for the bay view. The rhythm is relaxed and coastal, with pintxos bars busiest around 13:00 and again from 20:00. Book ahead if you want one of the temple-of-gastronomy Michelin kitchens in the hills. Bring a rain jacket even in summer, because the Atlantic weather turns quickly, and let the tides and the bar counters set your pace.
A full, walkable day in San Sebastián, free for everyone. Set your pace and start time.
Ease into the day the Basque way; the almond-cream pastel vasco or a palmera pairs well with a cortado.
Go at low tide when the beach is widest; the white balustrade and the bay are at their best in morning light.
The vintage funicular runs to the old amusement park at the top; the postcard panorama of La Concha is the reward.
Chillida's iron combs are anchored in the rocks; if the sea is rough, waves spout through the blowholes underfoot.
A short wooded walk up to the Castillo de la Mota and the Christ statue; the bay panorama up top is superb.
Hit La Cuchara de San Telmo for the braised veal cheek, then Borda Berri for the Idiazabal orzo; order hot pintxos to order.
The wobbly tarta de queso here is the original; grab a slice and a glass of white to end the crawl.
The famously beautiful shell-shaped city beach framed by a white balustraded promenade; walk its full curve at low tide or swim in the sheltered bay.
A cult Old Town bar with no counter display, ordering hot pintxos to order like braised veal cheek in red wine and seared foie; expect a scrum at peak times.
The hill at the western end of the bay with an old-fashioned funicular and a vintage amusement park; ride up for the classic postcard view of La Concha.
The wooded hill above the Old Town crowned by the Castillo de la Mota and a large Christ statue; a short climb rewards you with a sweeping bay panorama.
The dense grid of the Old Town, home to the best pintxos bars and two grand churches; graze bar to bar in the evening rather than sitting for one meal.
The livelier surf beach on the Gros side of the river, popular with surfers and a younger crowd; check the swell before you go in.
Eduardo Chillida's iron sculptures anchored into the rocks at the bay's western foot, where waves spout through blowholes on a rough day; dramatic at high tide.
A reliable Old Town favourite on Calle 31 de Agosto famed for its solomillo (beef tenderloin) pintxo and jamon; grab a stool if you can.
A tiny legend where the txuleta steak and tomato salad sell out by lists you sign in advance, and the tortilla is served in just two seatings a day.
A modern Old Town star known for its risotto-like Idiazabal cheese orzo, braised veal cheek and grilled octopus; order hot pintxos from the board.
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Spain