SpainValencia is Spain's laid-back third city, the birthplace of paella and a place that mixes a golden medieval core with the space-age curves of the City of Arts and Sciences. What makes it special is the Turia, a former riverbed rerouted after a great flood and turned into a nine-kilometre ribbon of gardens that loops right through the centre, perfect for walking or cycling between sights. The pace is Mediterranean and unhurried: mornings for markets and monuments, a long paella lunch (Valencians eat their rice at midday, never for dinner), an afternoon lull, then a late evening of horchata, tapas and terraces. Base yourself near the old town, rent a bike for the Turia, and set aside a beach afternoon at Malvarrosa where the seafront restaurants of the Cabanyal serve the real thing. Book the Oceanografic aquarium and any big-name rice restaurant ahead in high season. Valencia is warmer, cheaper and calmer than Barcelona or Madrid, and it rewards travellers who let the city breathe around them.
Day plans
Pick your trip length. The full 1-day plan is free, members unlock the 3 and 7-day plans.
Fuel up before the market; a coca de llanda or almond pastry with coffee sets you up for a morning on foot.
The modernista hall shuts mid-afternoon, so go early; pull up a stool at Ricard Camarena's counter for a market bocadillo.
The Gothic silk exchange with its spiralling palm columns is right opposite the market and rarely crowded; allow half an hour.
