Geneva sits at the tip of its namesake lake where the Rhone rushes out, a small, international city that punches far above its size thanks to the UN, the Red Cross and a cluster of global institutions. It feels more French than most of Switzerland, with lakeside cafes, a hilltop old town of antique shops and the towering Jet d'Eau fountain as its signature. Split your time between the flat, modern left and right banks around the water and the steep, cobbled Vieille Ville crowned by the cathedral where Calvin preached. The lake is the constant: walk its promenades, ride the little yellow Mouettes water taxis between banks, and take a paddle steamer along the Riviera. Buy the free transport card that hotels give guests, and use the efficient trams and buses. Eat well across borders, French, Italian and Swiss, and treat a fondue or a filet de perche from the lake as essential. Geneva is compact, refined and quietly rewarding if you slow down.
A full, walkable day in Geneva, free for everyone. Set your pace and start time.
Start on the water; the fountain runs most of the day, and the pier walk is best before the wind picks up.
A quick free stop for the living flower clock before heading up into the old town.
The tower climb gives the best old-town panorama; the archaeological site beneath the cathedral is worth the extra ticket.
Pause on the ancient square for a coffee; the surrounding lanes are full of galleries and small boutiques.
Play a game on the giant public chess boards and read the carved reformers before heading back down.
Cheap entry gets you the pier, water and, in winter, the sauna; a very local way to end the afternoon.
The bathhouse buvette does a famous-value fondue; nearby Auberge de Saviese is the cosy fallback, so book in winter.
A beloved old bistro in Petit-Saconnex renowned for one of Geneva's best cheese fondues, cosy and always busy, so book a table in winter.
The old town's austere Protestant cathedral where Calvin preached; climb the towers for a fine rooftop panorama and visit the Roman ruins in the crypt below.
The steep, cobbled old town of antique shops, fountains and the long Place du Bourg-de-Four; wander its lanes and pause for coffee on Europe's oldest square.
A lakeside garden by the water with the famous Horloge Fleurie made of living plants; a pleasant, free stroll and a classic Geneva photo.
The European seat of the United Nations set in a grand park; guided tours reveal the assembly halls, and outside stands the giant Broken Chair sculpture.
The moving International Red Cross and Red Crescent Museum near the UN, a thoughtful, modern exhibition on humanitarian history; allow a couple of hours.
The cheap, cheerful canteen at the Bains des Paquis bathhouse, famous for a hearty winter fondue and summer breakfasts right on the water; pay cash and grab a lake-view bench.
A student-favourite chain whose whole point is 'On y mange du poulet', juicy roast chicken with potatoes and salad for a bargain in the old town.
A centuries-old inn in the heart of the old town serving classic fondue, raclette and rosti to a well-heeled crowd; atmospheric and central, so reserve.
A relaxed, arty bistro in the museum quarter with a changing seasonal menu and a good-value lunch, popular with locals.
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Switzerland