Zurich is Switzerland's largest city, a compact, walkable place where a spotless lake, a fast-flowing river and steep old-town lanes all sit within a 20-minute stroll of the main station. It has a reputation for banking and expense, and it earns it, but the pleasures that matter most here are cheap or free: swimming in the Limmat and the lake at public badis, riding the trams that run like clockwork, and grazing a plate of sliced veal in cream sauce with rosti. Base yourself near the lake or in the old town, buy a day travel pass, and split your time between the medieval Niederdorf lanes on the east bank and the reinvented industrial districts of Zurich West. Museums cluster conveniently, the Kunsthaus and the National Museum both reward a half day, and the wooded Uetliberg gives a quick escape with a view of the Alps on a clear day. Zurich rewards a slow rhythm: morning coffee, an afternoon swim, a lakeside sundowner, and a proper sit-down dinner.
A full, walkable day in Zurich, free for everyone. Set your pace and start time.
Start early while the shopping street is quiet; buy a day travel pass at the station machines to cover trams, buses and boats.
Go mid-morning for the best light through the choir; a small entry fee applies and photography of the windows is restricted.
The tower has a narrow stair and a small charge; the view over the old town and river is the payoff.
Duck into Confiserie Teuscher for champagne truffles and browse the small boutiques; it is calmer in the afternoon.
Head straight for the Giacometti rooms and the Swiss collection; on Thursdays it opens late, easing the crowds.
A round-trip Zurichsee boat is covered by the day pass; sit on the right side heading out for the best light.
Try a Zurcher sausage or schnitzel with a local beer; it is large and lively, but book ahead at weekends.
The elegant lakefront from Burkliplatz south, lined with plane trees and boat piers; hop a Zurichsee boat cruise or just walk to the swimming badis at sunset.
A cavernous former arsenal from 1487 serving giant Zurcher sausages, schnitzel and the metre-long 'Kanonenputzer' sausage under vaulted ceilings, always busy and good for a first-night feed.
The twin-towered Romanesque church that was the cradle of the Swiss-German Reformation under Zwingli; climb the Karlsturm tower for a rooftop view over the old town.
A slender-spired church treasured for its five glowing stained-glass windows by Marc Chagall; go mid-morning when the light pours through the choir.
Zurich's tram-lined luxury shopping boulevard running from the station to the lake, worth a window-shopping stroll even if the price tags are eye-watering.
The pedestrian medieval quarter on the river's east bank, a warren of lanes packed with bars, boutiques and fondue joints; liveliest in the early evening.
The city's leading art museum, strong on Giacometti, Munch and Swiss masters, with a striking Chipperfield extension; allow a half day and check late Thursday hours.
A wood-panelled 1924 institution hung with original Chagall, Miro and Picasso, famous for its tableside-carved veal and a legendary chocolate mousse; book and dress up.
The reliable place in the Niederdorf for bubbling cheese fondue and meat fondue chinoise, hearty and central, so reserve on winter weekends.
Zurich's most famous grilled bratwurst, served with a crusty burli roll and fierce house mustard, eaten standing near Bellevue; join the queue and cash helps.
The 1859 chocolate house on Paradeplatz where locals buy delicate Luxemburgerli macarons by the bagful and stop for hot chocolate and a light lunch upstairs.
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Switzerland